Alpine savvy aid climbing ladder This website offers information and ideas (not advice) intended to reduce your risk when climbing. 4oz, our full-sized, six step ladders are a no-brainer for big wall and aid climbing, caving, canyoneering or glacier objectives. Does it seem like that bolt is always J U S T out of reach? How about aid climbing a bolt ladder that must've Feb 27, 2025 · Carry a knife, so you can cut up your cordage (or maybe even an end off your climbing rope) to make an anchor. Olle makes soft good for aid climbing, big walls and some industrial use. Set up your ledge on a real cliff and spend a night in it, not just in a backyard tree. Adjustable tethers have been Oct 21, 2022 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. May 2, 2022 · Ladders. If you do, it means you're doing it wrong. Dec 16, 2018 · Here's one for the aid climbers, who are likely to have a pulley and an ascender. com For the complete article and link: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here: Racking your aid ladders . This is one small way to do that. It looks a lot like a bird head, hence some of the clever names: Toucan, Tomahawk, Pecker etc. Nov 2, 2022 · Pro tip: If you're doing an alpine start, rig your your rope with knots and coils the night before. With the burly spreader bar to keep shape, you'll love these things. Jan 2, 2023 · There are many different approaches to crevasse rescue. Learn A lightweight version of the Etrier, perfect for the mountains or in-a-day big wall missions. And the included velcro pocket keeps them organized. com Apr 10, 2020 · Need to do some improvised aid climbing to get past a tough section of rock? When the summit is more important than style points, here's how to quickly tie an improvised aid ladder out of a double Alpine Savvy - Need to do some improvised aid climbing to The 8-step ladder has u-shaped steps for demanding, technical aid. Good ladders are made by Yates, Fish Gear, and Metolius. A beak piton (a shortening of the broader term bird beak) is a very thin piton with a V-shaped downward hook at the end. Big wall: the “lower out cord” . Fifi hook – bring one. Note the redirect pulley (orange) with an integrated swivel, smaller diameter static Z cord, a cable quick draw (zero stretch) and a Petzl Basic ascender. Place a piece as high as you can. Usually this is easier than hauling with your arms. Our favorite is the Yates “Speed Wall” but there are many appropriate models. The cord I like is a simply 5 or 6 mm cord, about 15 feet / 5 meters. And when you're free climbing, you have to keep them tidy and out-of-the-way, but instantly accessible to transition back to aid. This is easier if you don’t use a tether on your Feb 17, 2020 · Aid climbing through a roof can be insanely awkward and strenuous . Apr 13, 2022 · Climb the ladder below until you can’t go any higher. Jun 25, 2020 · Sewn pocket daisy chains are designed for aid climbing, have a strength of only about 3 kN between the pockets, and have some limitations for use as a lanyard and definitely in anchor systems. 1 - Place some gear, clip a single aid ladder to the gear, and stand in the second step with either foot; for this example, your left. Sure, those super long extendable fiberglass poles with some fancy carabiner-grabber-thingie on t Sep 29, 2019 · Does it seem like that bolt is always J U S T out of reach? How about aid climbing a bolt ladder that must've been drilled by somebody 7 feet tall? Here's your answer: the stiffy quick draw. Some people choose to use these, occasionally incorrectly, so let's learn about this gear and some of the drawbacks. Experienced climbers might get through the throbbing pain and frequent nausea with a mixture of cursing and laughter, but for beginners or anyone who hasn’t experienced this before, it can be a pretty Feb 22, 2023 · Warning: Climbing is dangerous. In fact, you may find the Yates tether actually works a little better, because it's easy to release under tension, while the Petzl one is not, at least for me. Jun 23, 2019 · Does it seem like that bolt is always J U S T out of reach? How about aid climbing a bolt ladder that must've been drilled by somebody 7 feet tall? Here's your answer: the stiffy quick draw. Some older methods are cumbersome, slow to set up, and add unnecessary clutter. See 400+ more tips like this at alpinesavvy. Sep 12, 2020 · DIY - Make a “cheater” quickdraw . (Monkey Face bolt Jan 18, 2023 · Clip a Tibloc / ascender or something similar to the haul strand, clip in a double length sling (or aid ladder) for a foot loop, step in it, and haul with your bodyweight by stepping down in the sling. Clip it higher if you can. Here’s another way to rig this. Warning: Climbing is dangerous. . Step up in your ladder, start free climbing, and simply leave the ladder behind. Jul 12, 2023 · If you're looking for aid ladders, look no further. Feb 17, 2020 · They show it using their nifty Petzl “Evolv Adjust” adjustable tether designed for aid climbing, but any sort of adjustable tether, such as the popular Yates, will work. Does it seem like that bolt is always J U S T out of reach? How about aid climbing a bolt ladder that must've been drilled by somebody 7 feet tall? Here's your answer: the stiffy quick draw. Good rule of thumb, if you add cord to improve an existing anchor, remove the oldest piece(s) and take it with you. From big wall expert Andy Kirkpatrick’s excellent aid climbing book, “Higher Education”: “You should never find aid climbing hard. Get a five step ladder. Many of the tips here are appropriate only for those with prior experience. The traditional way to do this is using your ”lead” ladders. Center: Aid ladder clipped to the sling. Most climbers prefer more symmetrical style ladders rather than those with alternating steps on either side. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of a qualified instructor, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. See 350+ more tips like this at alpinesavvy. (Note that in the video below, the climber does not have an aid ladder, it's just a sling that serves as a foot loop. Do “aid bouldering” close to the ground, placing all manner of tiny stoppers, marginal hooks and micro cams until you really know how far you can push them before Dec 1, 2023 · Aideer Climbing is a one-man show, crafted by Olle Hjort in Stockholm Sweden. Now you can easily transfer your weight on to the gear, which lets you unclip your quickdraw and/or the rope. Note these are all my personal preferences; consider it a starting point. One good approach: use designated carabiners, one pair for leading and one pair for your tethers. Dec 17, 2018 · Another option is to clip an ascender with a stirrup of webbing or an aid ladder onto the Z cord, and pump down on the Z cord with your leg. Unclip your fifi from the lower placement and clip to the upper quickdraw (or tether if needed). Our unique Pocket Aider is also u-shaped and conveniently stores away in attached pouch to prevent tangling. MISCELLANEOUS Summit Pack – For multi-pitch climbing. A lower out cord is a #CraftyRopeTrick used in aid climbing. Slight improvement, but let's see if we can get a little higher. The bar tacks cause the sling to open up a bit when it's hanging, making it easier to step into. Rest on your tether. ) Racking your aid ladders . Before progress capture pulleys were invented, this was the standard hauling method on big walls. Right: Aid ladder clipped directly into the wire loop. Do “aid bouldering” close to the ground, placing all manner of tiny stoppers, marginal hooks and micro cams until you really know how far you can push them before Sep 9, 2018 · Using a designated lower out cord like this can be especially helpful when climbing with folks relatively new to aid climbing, who may not have the more advanced following / cleaning skills. It helps to actually put your foot in the sling and step (gently) on the bar tacks, to keep them in the right place and put a bit of tension on the sling as Aid climbing requires lots of fixed rope ascending. com For the complete article and link: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here: 159 views, 1 likes, 0 loves, 2 comments, 0 shares, Facebook Watch Videos from Alpine Savvy: See 400+ more tips like this at alpinesavvy . or, pretty straightforward if you have the proper gear and technique. Generally, it's best practice to have all team members clip to a knot with a locking carabiner, rather than tying the rope through the harness. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of an experienced climber, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. This is simpler, cheaper, and lighter. They are top quality, durable in the right places, and very lightweight. Aid ladders always seem to be trying to trip you up. Clip ladder to the gear. Apr 21, 2022 · Having a simple, versatile system for rigging your ladders and tethers is good practice for efficient big wall leading. Feb 2, 2022 · Ladder aiders are so named because of their shape: 2 parallel sides with horizontal steps between them. With modern tools like a progress capture pulley and micro ascenders, crevasse rescue is usually faster and simpler. Mar 8, 2024 · Unlike most other aspects of rock climbing, you can rest pretty much whenever you want to on a big wall. Choose them carefully. Here's Sep 9, 2018 · Even if you’re climbing an aid route cleanly, meaning without a hammer, having a “beak” style piton can come in very handy. Alpine Savvy · April 10, 2020 · · April 10, 2020 · If your personal ethics allow it (and mine definitely do), stick clips are great. ) Mar 16, 2025 · I’m enjoying your regular climbing tips, as always. Not ideal, you're losing about 8 inches of reach. If you want to gear up for a big wall adventure, Aideer is a fine place to start. Jun 16, 2022 · Here's how to do it. Also, a knife is useful for cleaning up any rat nest of old sun-crusted cord and webbing you often find at alpine anchors. May 10, 2025 · Aid climbing requires lots of fixed rope ascending. Jul 27, 2024 · Here’s a DIY gear hack that’s handy when cleaning a traversing aid pitch, or maybe a overhanging sport route. Dec 1, 2023 · This makes many different aspects of aid climbing faster and more efficient, such as top stepping, cleaning traverses, and even leading without connections to your ladders. Skot sells some key gear to dial in your 2:1 hauling system , such as the perfect length of low stretch Zed cord, and a zero-stretch wire quickdraw. Use this to your advantage. The Alfifi - adjustable tether for big wall climbing A adjustable tether / lanyard that lets you change the the length when weighted is VERY handy for aid climbing. Let's look at some techniques and video from pr Dec 1, 2023 · This makes many different aspects of aid climbing faster and more efficient, such as top stepping, cleaning traverses, and even leading without connections to your ladders. I have a topic suggestion for your first aid section: the dreaded screaming barfies. It can make cleaning sharply traversing pitches, roofs or short pendulums a LOT easier. com For the complete article and link: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here: Sewn pocket daisy chains are designed for aid climbing, have a strength of only about 3 kN between the pockets, and have some limitations for use as a lanyard and definitely in anchor systems. Ladder-style aiders are better for sustained wall climbing. May 27, 2019 · Aid to free transition #2 - Use a ladder as a sling. Here's a great technique to do just that, from expert climber Libby Sauter. Clip a carabiner onto the ladder pretty much anywhere, and clip the lead rope into that as protection. All climbers need proper training and equipment, and to take personal responsibility for their choices. It's one less thing to do at 0:dark:30 by headlamp when you're sleepy. Pop the fifi, ta Mar 8, 2024 · Practice transitioning from aid climbing to free climbing. Remember to aid climb like you free climb; use your hands in the crack or rock features to step up; don’t just pull on your aiders or gear. Practice transitioning from aid climbing to free climbing. Our standard triangular shape comes with 4 or 5 steps and the Alpine is a lightweight version of the 4-step with ¾" web. If you do them wrong, you could die. However, an adjustable, comfortable and lightweight stirrup is a superior tool. This looks like the rope is getting twisted as it goes through the pulley. com For the complete article and link: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here:. Dec 15, 2020 · Left: Aid ladder clipped to the racking carabiner of the cam. Sep 17, 2022 · Racking your aid ladders . Premium Article available Feb 27, 2019 · Aid ladders always seem to be trying to trip you up. This is one of the common ways to haul when big wall climbing. Apr 10, 2020 · 1 - Start with a 120 cm sling. Girth hitch an aid climbing fifi ihook to an adjustable tether. Favored by aid and big wall climbers, aid ladders tend to have wider steps which are generally reinforced with extra stitching and material to handle the several hours of daily abuse that big walls require. Poop in a bag, on your ledge. Sep 8, 2018 · Are you feeling “height challenged” on some sport climbing routes, stretching on your tiptoes to clip that just-out-of-reach bolt? How about aid climbing on a bolt or rivet ladder, where you’re sure the first ascensionist must’ve been Wilt Chamberlain’s big brother, because the dang bolts seem like they're 6 feet apart? Feb 16, 2019 · You could also clip your ladder carabiner to your tether locker, but I find having them separated with a quick link is cleaner and less prone to twisting and other weirdness. The foundation of aid climbing is having simple, safe, and easily repeatable systems that you don't have to think about too much. When you find a good one, buy two, because you need one for each aider. Does it seem Jan 6, 2019 · The carabiners on the business end of your aid ladders will probably become your single most used piece of hardware. My new favorite ladders, featured here, are made by Aideer Big Wall Gear from Sweden. In fact, once you put a load on it, the pulley and ascender line up quite nicely. Check out these great diagrams from Petzl on how to do it, and learn some ways to practice before you get on the real stone. Here's one way to set it up, and some specific gear recommendations. 14 L to 25 L or 1300 to 1800 cubic inches. Mar 9, 2022 · Aideer big wall gear, made in Sweden, carries on the tradition of a one-man shop making high-quality climbing gear, with impeccable attention to design and sewing, with fair prices and fast shipping. Apr 6, 2023 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. At just 3. Climb the ladder until you can clip your fifi to the stopper wire on the top See full list on outdoorgearlab. Remove ladder from bottom quickdraw and clip it to to the top carabiner of the upper quickdraw. Put the sewn part on the “bottom” of one half of the sling. Aug 29, 2018 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Feb 7, 2019 · As with any climbing skill, this is a better show than a tell. com . Learn Sep 17, 2022 · Racking your aid ladders . ayjp zywsw dsjqix mxqyy yqx vbjr cluph iypckaap dzg hpw